Enclosed is your new Stiletto genoa. Also enclosed is an eight foot piece of wire with a ring in the center called the genoa bridle.
The genoa is a much larger jib than the lapper. It is used in the lapper’s place to enhance the light air performance of the Stiletto. The front edge (luff) of the genoa is longer than the lapper’s and extends below the ring where the lapper is tied. For this reason a second ring is provided; the one in the center of the genoa bridle.
The genoa bridle is installed by lacing one end with the line provided to the U-bolt on the hull where the forestay bridle attaches. The bridle is then stretched along the front of the trampoline to the U-bolt on the other hull; and laced as tightly as possible.
To set the genoa, loosely tie the front bottom corner (tack) of the sail to the center ring of the genoa bridle. Snap the luff to the forestay; and attach the halyard to the top corner (head). Tie the jib sheets to the clew (bottom rear corner). Put the slides on the jib track in the cockpit near the aft end of the track. Hoist the sail and put one of the balls on the halyard under the hook on mast. Now go forward to the bridle and tension the luff of the genoa by lacing the tack tightly to the ring.
In time, the ring on the bridle will elongate. This is normal. As it elongates the bridle will become loose and need to be retentioned.
Reacher Running Rigging Installation
The three parts to the reacher running rigging are the halyard, the bridle, and the sheets. The halyard is installed in the mast at the factory, so no assembly is required. Just be sure that a knot is tied in the end so that it doesn’t get lost in the mast.
The reacher bridle assembly consists of a plastic coated wire bridle with three blocks, a snap shackle and two U-shackles; and two 22’ x ¼ inch control lines. To install the bridle, shackle one end of it to one of the U-bolts on the inboard edge of the deck 3’ forward of the headstay U-bolt, using one of the U-shackles. When installed , the small block at the end of the wire should be on the aft side of the shackle. Stretch the bridle across to the opposite bow and shackle the other end to the other U-bolt. Again, the small block should be on the aft side. This completes installation of the bridle. To rig the 22’ tack control lines, tie one end of each line into the base of the snap shackle which is attached to the third “rider block” on the bridle. (Boats equipped with roller furlers will have a U-shackle rather than a snap shackle- tie into the U-shackle.) Lead the other end of each of the control lines through one of the small blocks at each end of bridle. Each line is then lead aft to a cam cleat with a bullseye fairlead on the inboard side of the deck near the front of the cockpit. Feed the end of each line through its bullseye and tie a figure eight knot in the end of the line.
The reacher sheets are each 60’ long. Tie one end of each sheet to the clew (bottom rear corner) of the reacher sail. Lead the other end of each sheet to the spring mounted block on the outboard edge of the deck about 15” from the transom. Make sure the sheet passes outboard of all the stays, halyards, and sheets you pass on the way to the block. Don’t forget to pass the windward sheet outboard of the headstay as you go around the boat. Once you have lead the end of the sheet through the transom block, lead it forward along the edge of the deck to the black turning block with the switch on it which is mounted on the outboard edge of the deck 5 ½’ forward of the shroud U-bolt. Lead the end of the line through this block from outboard to inboard side. Tie a figure eight knot in the end of the sheet and take up the slack. The sheet cleats in the cam cleat, without a bullseye fairlead, on the deck near the front corner of the cockpit.
Mainsail Traveller Control
The mainsail traveller car is controlled by a 3:1 tackle attached to each side of the car. This consists of sheaves and cleats on the car, bullet cheek blocks at the ed of the traveller and 42’ of 5/16” spun braid. To rig the assembly, remove the endstop and turning block from one end of the track. Slide the car on to the track with the cleats facing forward. Reinstall the endstop and turning block. Now find the center of the 42’ traveller control line. Once you find the center, fold the line so that a loop is formed at the center point. Insert this loop through the eyestrap on the back of the traveller car and pass the ends of the line through the loop. Tighten the loop by pulling on the ends of the line. Feed one line end from back to front through each of the turning blocks at the ends of the track. From there lead the ends through the sheaves on the traveller car from back to front; and then under the eyestraps into the cleats. Tie a figure eight knot in the ends of the line. Tighten up the lines.
The mast rotator controls the rotation of the mast relative to the boom. Set it up by tying one end of the 6’ x ¼” rotation line to the eyestrap on the bottom of the boom near the front. Lead the other end through the shackle on the back of the mast rotator rod through the mast. Lead the end back to the eyestrap, and if there is extra line, back to the shackle. The line should be tie with enough slack that the mast can rotate 30-40 degrees to each side of the boom for a total rotation of 60-80 degrees.
Roller Furler Installation and Use
Install the furling line onto the drum by first feeding it through the fairlead on the cleat and then through the middle size hole on the top of the drum. Tie a figure eight knot in the end of the line. Examine the lay of the wire in the luff of your reacher. You want to roll the line on the drum in the direction that tightens the lay of the wire when the line is pulled and the sail is rolled up. Damage to the luff wire may result if the furling line is rolled on the wrong way.
Attach furling drum to the tack of the sail by inserting the clevis pin on top of the drum through the tack of the sail.
Attach the top swivel to the head of the sail in the same manner as the furling drum was installed. The end of the swivel with out the two “J” shaped rods goes on the sail.
On the bottom of the furling drum is a screw pin shackle. Remove the snap shackle fro the bridle traveller block replacing it with screw pin shackle (on new rigs there will be no snap shackle.) If the snap shackle is used the furler will turn the shackle rather than roll up the sail.
Tie the halyard around the clevis pin at the other end of the top swivel from the sail.
Tie the sheets to the clew of the sail.
Hoist the sail until the halyard is good and snug.
To furl the sail, release all tension on the sheets. Pull the small diameter line on the furling drum. This rolls the sail around its luff wire. When the sail is completely rolled up cleat the line to prevent the sail from unrolling.
To keep the furling line from going overboard stuff it behind the compression tube into the end of the trampoline sleeve.
To unfurl the sail, pull the furling line out of the trampoline sleeve and then uncleat it. Pulling on the appropriate sheet will unfurl the sail.
The sail will last longer if it is stowed loose. This allows air to get it. The sail an be stowed temporarily by lowering its furled and coiling it up like a hose.
The reacher does not have a protective leech that keeps the sun from damaging the sail if left up while the boat is not in use. Therefore, remove the furled reacher when not using the boat. If the sail is damp, put it away unfurled so that air can get to it.
To jiffy reef, proceed as follows: Tie one end of the reefing line to the eyestrap on the port side of the boom near the back. Feed the other end through the reef clew, down through the bullet cheek block on the starboard side of the boom, and forward to the cleat on the starboard side of the boom. Leave some slack in the line while sailing with a full main so that you won’t affect sail shape.
To reef, unlace the main tack downhaul. Ease the mainsheet and traveller to unload the man. Lower the halyard until the reef tack grommet is about 18” above the boom (you need this much for stretch.) Cleat the halyard. Take up on the clew reefing line until the reef clew is snug to the boom. Cleat the reef line. Sheet the main and traveller back in. Lace the tack downhaul through the reef tack and tension until luff is tight. Cleat tack downhaul. The extra sail hanging down can be dealt with one of two ways. In either case roll the sail up from the bottom in a tight roll. The first method is to have short pieces (about 3’) inserted through each of the small grommets in the sail. These should have a knot on either side of the grommet so they stay in position. Tie these lines around the rolled sail only. The second method is to have one small diameter lace line which is tied at the clew, lace around the sail and through the grommet, around the sail and through the grommet, etc. until the extra sail is laced up. Tie off the lace line at the tack. The reason you do not tie or lace around the boom is that you have to undo the job to drop the sail; or you may tear out the small grommets if the clew or tack lines stretch or slip.
To shake the reef out, do the steps in reverse order.
Installing Deck Snaps on Cockpit Tent
After rigging your tent attach the deck portion of the snap provided at a point approximately 1 ½” outside and 1 ½ ” behind the outside of the rear of the canopy nacelle.
You may use the snaps with self tapping screws or the machine screws with washers and nuts for all of the snaps that go vertically through the decks. The machine screws will be stronger and avoid possibility of pulling out- they also offer a more finished appearance on the inside of your boat when used with the snap caps provided, Enough snaps are provided so you can use either type of fastener for the six on deck snaps. Therefore, you will have six of one kind of fastener left over. The two rear outer most snaps are located directly above the torque tubes and therefore awkward to reach on the inside- you may wish to use self tapping screws on these. On the Special Edition the self tapping screw will be hidden by the carpet inside the boat. Use 1/8” pilot drill for the self tapping screws and the machine screws.
After attaching the rear snap and snapping the corner down, pull that side taught to determine the location of the forward snap on that side. Follow this procedure for the opposite side. Next attach the middle snap on the rear of the cockpit just below the traveller track and in the center of the rear edge of the cockpit on the outside wall. All snaps on the cockpit should be self tapping kind. Stretching the tent outward from the center attach the two other snaps on the rear of the cockpit. You may have to lift the rear edge of the cockpit slightly to place these snaps. Any excess material in the rear sidewalls will be left between the deck snap and the outside cockpit snap.
Place the two center snaps on the front of the cockpit then stretch the tent outward to locate the deck snaps just inside the forward end of the nacelle. Leave the excess material between the snaps either side of the front of the nacelle. This “bag” is necessary to allow the canopy to open and close with the tent up.
All snaps should be “seated” with calking (boat life, silicone, etc.) to avoid leakage.
To finish the machine screws inside, snap caps are provided. The clear portion goes under
the nut on the inside of the hull. The colored cap snaps on top to hide the nut and screw end.
13 self tapping snaps
7 machine screws
7 snaps for machine screws
7 snap cap sets
Installing The Stiletto Cockpit Tent
Rig the sunshade portion first. Expand the whisker pole and insert it into the sleeve along the aft end of the sunshade, attaching the clips at each end of the pole on to the “D” rings
on the aft corners of the shade. Telescope the pole so the sleeve is reasonably taught. Lay the entire sunshade on top of the boom with the whisker pole perpendicular to and at the outboard end of the boom. (Zippers should be on the underside of the sunshade.) The front edge of the sunshade has a tab with a short piece of line attached. This line attaches by sliding down the luff track of the mast, the same as the bolt rope on the mainsail. Attach the front outboard corners with the lines provided to the shrouds. The rear corners are attached by means of the adjustable straps to the stern cleats. The boom shoul be elevated (using the main halyard) until the aft end is about 6 ½ feet high. Now attach the front, rear and two side panels. All windows open from the inside.
The snaps used on the Stiletto cockpit tent are called pull-a-dot snaps. Named because they will only unsnap from one direction. Pulling from the wrong direction will not unsnap the pull-a-dot and may result in damage to your tent. You must attach by pushing from the top down and remove by pulling from bottom up. Easy to remember- the tent is trying to pull the pull-a-dot one way and that is the way it will not unsnap- open from the other side. All snaps should be kept lubricated and free of any corrosion.
To install the trampoline, first slide the rear edge of each half into the track on the cockpit. The rear edge and outboard sides have bolt rope sewn into the edge. The front edge and center edges have grommets for lacing. Next slid the outboard edges into the tracks on the hulls. If you encounter difficulty in getting the trampoline started into the track, you may open the end of the track very slightly by inserting a round shaft (such as a Phillips screwdriver) into the end of the track and prying it open. Again, be careful!
Once the tramp is in the tracks, begin lacing. The longer the two lace lines is for lacing the front of the tramp after it has been passed over and around the front compression tube. At first the lace lines won’t seem long enough; but as the trampoline is tightened you will find you have just enough without long unsightly ends. Notice that the grommets are offset so that lacing can be done in a zigzag pattern. The best method we’ve found is to at first loosely lace the center and front; and then come back and tighten things up. This way you will work all the wrinkles out. The front lacing should not be so tight that it pulls the compression tube out of column